Machine for pressing and turning the edges of woven fabrics



(No Model.)

H. O. NAUEN.

MACHINE FOR PRESS'ING AND TURNING THE EDGES 0F WOVEN FABRICS.

No. 391,688. Patented Oct. 23', 1888.

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thvrrnn firn'rns Fnrnn'r HERMANN 0. NAUEN, or new YORK, ASSIGNOR TO MARY n. TRAoY, on raw, new YORK.

MACHINE FOR PRESSING AND TURNING THE EDGES 0F WOVEN FABRICS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 391,638, dated October 23, 1888.

Application filed February 16. 1888. Serial No. 264.315. (No model.)

To aZZ whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, HRRMANN O. NAUEN, of the c1ty,county, and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improve ments in Machines for Pressing and Turning the Edges of Woven Fabrics, especially adapted for use in the manufacture of collars and cuffs; and I do hereby declare that the following is a full and exact description thereof, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, and to the letters of reference marked thereon, making a part of this specification, in which- Figure l is a view in perspective of my improved edge turning and pressing machine; Fig. 2, a vertical section in line a: m of Fig. 1, showing the feed and pressing mechanism in its extreme forward position and about to rise under the pressing-lever; Fig. 3, a similar detached view of the same mechanism in its rear position when beginning its forward stroke, the feed-dog having dropped to its lowermost position; Fig. 4, a detached view in perspective of the presser-plate by which the fabric is kept in proper position in the folding mechanism, Fig. 5 being a sectional detail in line yyof Fig. 1, illustrating a modification therein, and Fig. 6 a sectional detail of a modification in spring attachment for crimping-jaw.

In the manufacture of collars, cuffs, and other articles having a turned-in or a guttered edge it is desirable, after the loose edge of the blank has been folded over, not only to press it down, but to crimp the fold transversely to prevent it from opening out before being secured. Heretofore the attainment of this end has been sought by passing the folded material under a fluted or corrugated roll 5 but in practice it has been found that the constant pressure of the roll so confines the fabric passing under it as to interfere with the proper play or movement of the fabric within and through the folding device or hemmer, causing thereby irregularities in the width and evenness of the folded edge.

lhe object of my invention is to obviate this diffieulty and to facilitate the turning of serpentine edges or edges having double or reversed curves in the length thereof, so that they shall readily pass through the turning mechanism with the same uniformity and precision as upon the straight portions and irrespective of sudden reversals in the direction of the curve.

The invention consists in the combination, as hereinafter described and claimed, with the hemmer or folding-in device usually employed for turning over the edge of the fabric, and with a reciprocating feed-dog of the ordinary type having a four-way or up-and-down as well as to-and-fro movement, and which is mounted in front of the edgeturning device to seize the folded fabric emerging therefrom, of a crimping jaw or head hinged to the dog to partake of its reciprocating movement and adapted to close down thereon, and an outer rest for said jaw which, without interfering with its reciprocation, shall support and up hold it above the cloth-plate when the dog drops below it. i

It consists, also,iu the combination, with said reciprocating crimping-j aw, of a spring or weight to increase its pressure upon the feeddog and the fabric interposed between the two.

1t consists, further, in the combinatiomwith the edge-guidefor pushing in toward the hemmer the outer edge of the strip whose inner edge is being drawn through the hemmer, of a retaining-plate fitted over the guide to prevent the fabric from doubling up under the action of said guide, and in the combination, 8 v

with said edge-guide, of an elastic rod extending parallel with the line of feed of the fabric passing through the hemmer and which carries the guide, a parallel adjustable extensionarm to whose outer end the outer end of the guide-rod is secured, and an adjustable spring carried by said arm and engaging the rod to cause it to swing the guide with a constant automatic pressure toward the hemmer.

In the accompanying drawings, Arepreseuts 0 the bed of the machine, upon which are secured the table B,for the sup port of the folding mechanism, and the pedestal O, supporting the feed and crimping mechanism. 7

A removable top plate, D, is fitted and se- 5 cured by screws to c, or other detachable fastenings, upon the table B, to facilitate the. use with the same feed device of various sizes of folding devices made interchangeable upon said table.

IOO

The folding mechanism consists ofa hemmer or edge-turning device, E, which is of the customary form, having a lateral curved wing or side plate, F, springing from a flat bed-plate, G, and terminating in a folded or doubled end adapted to turn and fold over upon itself the edge of a piece of fabric fed along the lateral wing F and drawn into and through the bends of the hemmer E. A long slot,I,is cut through the bed-plate G parallel with its front edge and in line with the first or receiving end of the hemmer E.

K represents an outer edge guide, which may consist of a piece of thin metal doubled upon itself, or of two parallel plates, 1) I), se cured at one edge upon an interposed bar or strip, 0, (see Fig. 5,) so as to leave one side of the plates, as well as their ends, open, their front edges, d (1, being bent out in opposite directions. (See Fig. 4.) This edge-guideis mounted to slide upon the trout end of the bedplate G to and from the hemmer E, its open side being turned toward the hemmer. The lower bent edge, d, of its front end fits into the slot I and serves as a guide for the loop. Its outer end is secured to the end of a long elastic rod, L, whose inner end is secured to the foot of a post, M, upon the outer end of an arm, N, projecting from the table B at a right angle with the slot I, as shown in Fig. 1. This arm N is made adjustable in length by forming its outer end in a separate section, N, to lap the main section and be confined thereon by means of a wide-headed set-screw, 0, passing through a longitudinal slot in the one sec' tion to screw into a threaded aperture in the other. The outer section, N, of the arm Nis preferably bentat a right angle,so that the post M thereon shall be brought to a position central with reference to the edge of the plate D. The post M is encircled by a coiled spring, L, whose lower end is made to engage the rod L,- and whose upper end is extended horizontally at an angle with the rod L to form alever, L by which the tension of the spring upon the rod may be adjusted. The lever is confined by means of a segmental rack,R,which is mounted upon the end N of the arm N to project therefrom, with the post M as the center of its arc. The outward reach of the rod L under the tension of the spring L is limited and governed bymeans of a hook, formed at the end of a piece of wire, which is confined upon the top of the end of the bar N to project therefrom toward the rod L by means of a set-screw, O, passing through a loop formed by doubling the wire upon itself, as shown in Fig. 1.

A retaining-plate, I, is mounted over the edge-guide K parallel with the bed-plate D, upon which it slides, one end being bent over the hemmer to find a support upon the top of a post, P, beyond it and the other fitted upon a block, I, which, being interposed between it and the underlying plate D, serves to uphold the retaining-plate at the proper height to al* low free play of the edge-guide under it. The function of this plate P is to prevent the fabric pressed in by the guide from doubling up be tween the guide and hemmer. A button or swinging catch, P projecting from the arm N over and upon the guideplate 1?, serves to hold it down at that end.

The edgeguide K is automatically carried by the action of the spring-rod L with a constant gentle pressure or tension toward the wing F of the edge-folding device, so that by inserting the outer edge of the strip of fabric H to be operated upon between the upper and lower leaves I) b of the loop, the fabric will be gently yet steadily pressed inward toward the folding device, so as to constantly keep the edge to be operated upon in proper position relatively to said device to insure its normal action thereon irrespective of the configuration or character or form of the curves in said edge, while the retaining-plate P operates to keep it from doubling up between the guide and edge-folder. The tension of the edge-guide upon the fabric is adjusted by means of the lever L". Its position with reference to the hemmer'plate G is adjusted by means of the extension-joint in the arm N. The fabric thus laterally supported and guided in its approach to the hemmer or former E is drawn through it by means of a feed-dog, Q, similar to those employed in sewing-machines. The dog Q is formed upon the outer end of a bar, Q, whose opposite end is pivoted upon a pin, 6, passing through a longitudinal slot in said end. The bar is made to reciprocate longitudinally upon said pivot-pin and at the same time to oscillate at each stroke, so that the dog Q shall rise at the end of the forward stroke and drop at the end of its rearward stroke by means of an eccentric, S, upon the end of a shaft, S, mounted transversely upon the pedestal O in front of the table B.

In lieu of a presser-foot, such as is found in the ordinary feed mechanism of a sewing-machine, to bear upon the feed-dog, a bar, T, is hinged at its outer end to the outer end of the feed-dog bar Q to extend in line therewith, and is provided at its inner end with a serrated jaw, T, adapted to rest upon the dog, the angular teeth of the dog and jaw being preferably made as counterparts to interlock when in contact, as shown in Fig. 2.

A lateral offset, U, is formed or fitted upon the bar T, through which a set-screw, U, is led, so that its lower end may bear upon and slide along the edge of a plate, V, fitted upon the top of the pedestal 0 parallel with the bar T. This set-screw serves to prevent the bar from dropping with the dog when the latter drops at the end of its rearward stroke, so that as the dog drops it is separated from the jaw T, leaving an open interval between the two, as shown in Fig. 3. This interval, which remains open as the dog moves forward, is closed and the dog and jaw brought closely together by the upward movement of the dog when it has completed its forward stroke and is about to move back again. As the dog Q moves upward it strikes and ICO closes against the jaw T before it has fully completed its stroke, so that the jaw is lifted with it. To insure a firm pressure of the dog against the jaw at this point,and thereby produce a crimping of the folded edge of the fabric caught between them, a lever, WV, pivoted at one end is mounted to extend transversely over the jaw and rest thereon, its outer free end being weighted or secured to a spiral spring, W, whose tension will operate to draw down said end and produce an elastic pressure upon the jaw. A friction roller, X, pivoted to the under side of the lever or upon the upper side of the jaw, serves to ease themovement of the latter as it traverses under the lever.

It is evident that the edge-guide may be carried toward the hammer under the top plate, P, by means of springs m m,inserted between it and the block 1? at the end of said top plate, as shown in Fig. 5, as an equivalent for the spring'actuated rod L, and I contemplate other devices for the same end which will readily suggest themselves to a skilled mechanic. A spiral spring, f, and follower g,interposed between a friction roller, X, on the jaw T, and a fixed arm or bracket, h, above the same may likewise be substituted, as illustrated in Fig. 6, as an equivalent for a weighted lever, W, for the purpose of obtaining an elastic pressure upon the crimping-jaw.

I claim as my invention' 1. The combination, with a device for turning over the edge of a fabric drawn through it, of a bar pivoted at one end upon a pin passing through an elongated slot therein, an operating-shaft carrying an eccentric engaging the opposite end of said bar to impart thereto a vertical and longitudinal reciprocating movement, a feed-dog upon the free end of said bar, an arm hinged to the pivoted end of said bar to participate in its longitudinal movements, a serrated jaw carried upon the free end of said arm over the feed-dog, so that the latter may close against it in its upward movement, a stop carried by said arm, and an outer independent fixed support upon which said stop may rest to prevent a downward movement of the jaw when the dog drops, all substantially in the manner and for the purpose herein set forth.

2. The combination, with the serrated jaw and the feed-dog moving against it, of a transverse spring-actuated lever bearing upon said jaw, and a friction-roller interposed between them, substantially in the manner and for the purpose herein set forth.

3. The combination, substantially as herein set forth, with a device for turning over the edge of a strip of fabric fed through it, and a spring-actuated outer edgeguide having a free movement transversely to the line of feed through the hemmer, of a retaining-plate extending from the hemmer to and over the edgeguide.

4. The combination of the edge-turning device, the lateral arm extending forward parallel with the line of feed through the same, the adjustable extension-piece on said arm,the elastic rod carried by said piece and extending back toward the edge-turning device parallel with the lateral arm, the outer edge-guide carried by said rod, and the adjustable spring actuating said guide-rod to move it toward the edge-turning device, all substantially in the manner and for the purpose herein set forth.

In testimony whereofl have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

HERMANN O. NAUEN.

Witnesses:

A. N. JESBERA, JoHN O. ZAHN. 

